The Chedi Andermatt

The Chedi Andermatt

Andermatt sits at 1,447 metres in the Urseren Valley, at the crossroads of the Gotthard, Furka, and Oberalp mountain passes in central Switzerland. It is not Verbier or Zermatt, which is precisely the point. For years it was a quiet military town with exceptional skiing and very little in the way of places to stay. The Chedi opened in 2013, designed by Belgian architect Jean-Michel Gathy, and is still the only reason most people outside Switzerland know the name Andermatt. The hotel is a striking building, all dark wood and stone, designed to sit within the landscape rather than impose on it. Inside, the aesthetic is unexpected: lots of Alpine materials, glossy local woods, natural stone, over two hundred fireplaces — combined with an Asian sensibility that shouldn't work but does. The 119 rooms and suites are generous and warm, each with a fireplace and large windows that frame the mountains. The Grand Deluxe Rooms on the upper floors have the best views and two-sided fireplaces that open onto both the room and the terrace. There are five restaurants and bars. The Japanese Restaurant is the main event, awarded two Michelin stars and widely considered the best Japanese restaurant in Switzerland, which is notable given how far you are from anywhere you'd expect to find it. The Restaurant handles everything from breakfast through dinner with a menu that moves between European and Asian influences. The spa is 2,400 square metres with five pools and a Tibetan relaxation lounge, and is the kind of facility that justifies building a trip around it. Skiing is the winter draw: 182 kilometres of slopes across the Andermatt-Sedrun area, with reliable snow at altitude and far fewer queues than you'll find in the more famous Swiss resorts. The hotel has a ski and sports butler service and ski storage on site. In summer, the valley is excellent for hiking and cycling, and the hotel can arrange most things through the concierge. Zurich is 90 minutes by car or train. The Glacier Express stops in Andermatt, which makes arriving from Zermatt or St. Moritz a genuinely scenic journey if you have the time. The short version: The best hotel in one of Switzerland's best ski areas, with a Japanese restaurant that alone justifies the trip. Come in winter if you ski; come in summer if you want the Alps without the crowds.